Beaumaris, begun in 1295, was the last and
largest of the castles to be built by King Edward I in Wales.
Raised on an entirely new site, without earlier buildings to fetter its
designer's creative genius, it is possibly the most sophisticated example of
medieval military architecture in Britain.
Below: An aerial view of the castle from the south-east
This is undoubtedly the ultimate "concentric" castle,
built with an almost geometric symmetry. Conceived as an integral whole, a
high inner ring of defenses is surrounded by a lower outer circuit of walls,
combining an almost unprecedented level of strength and firepower. Before the
age of cannon, the attacker would surely have been faced with an impregnable
fortress. Yet, ironically, the work of construction was never fully completed,
and the castle saw little action apart from the Civil War in the 17th century.
Below: two exterior views of the impressive curtain wall at
Beaumaris:
the western side of the castle w/moat & the eastern side
where the moat has been filled in
A castle was almost certainly planned when King Edward
visited Anglesey in 1283 and designated the Welsh town of Llanfaes to be its
seat of government. At the time, resources were already stretched and any such
scheme was postponed. Then, in 1294-95, the Welsh rose in revolt under Madog
ap Llywelyn. The rebels were crushed after an arduous winter campaign, and the
decision was taken to proceed with a new castle in April 1295. The extent of
English power is demonstrated by the fact that the entire native population of
Llanfaes was forced to move to a newly established settlement, named
Newborough. The castle itself was begun on the "fair marsh," and was given the
Norman-French name Beau Mareys. Building progressed at an astonishing speed,
with some 2,600 men engaged in the work during the first year.
Below right: the main entrance to the castle through the south gatehouse
In sole charge of
the operation was Master
James of St. George, already with many years of experience in
castle-building, both in Wales and on the Continent. Even after 700 years it
is not difficult to appreciate the tremendous sophistication in his elaborate
design at Beaumaris. The first line of defense was provided by a water-filled
moat, some 18ft wide. At the southern end was a tidal dock for shipping, where
vessels of 40 tons laden weight could sail right up to the main gate. The dock
was protected by the shooting deck on Gunner's Walk.
Across the moat is the low curtain wall of the outer
ward, its circuit punctuated by 16 towers and two gates. On the northern side,
the Llanfaes gate was probably never completed. The gate next to the sea, on
the other hand, preserves evidence of its stout wooden doors and gruesome
"murder holes" above. Once through, an attacker would still have to face 11
further obstacles before entering the heart of the castle. These included the
barbican, further "murder holes," three portcullises and several sets of
doors. If the daunting prospect of the gate-passage proved too much, the
would-be attacker caught hesitating between the inner and outer walls could
not have survived for long. A rain of heavy crossfire would have poured down
from all directions.
The striking thing about the inner ward is its great
size. Covering about 3/4 of an acre, it was surrounded by a further six towers
and the two great gatehouses. Within, it is clear that there was an intention
to provide lavish suites of accommodation. Both gatehouses were planned to
have grand arrangements of state rooms at their rear, much as those completed
at Harlech. The north gate, on the far side, was only raised as far as its
hall level and the projected second storey was never built. Even as it now
stands, with its five great window openings, it dominates the courtyard.
Another block, of equal size, was planned for the south gate, but this was
never to rise further than its footings. Around the edges of the ward further
buildings were planned and must have included a hall, kitchens, stables and
perhaps a granary. Although there is some evidence of their existence in the
face of the curtain wall, it is not certain they were ever completed.
Below: general view of the eastern side of the outer ward w/chapel
tower
Visitors should not miss the little chapel situated in
the tower of that name. It's vaulted ceiling and pointed windows make it one
of the highlights of the castle. Also in this tower there is a fascinating
exhibition on the "Castles of Edward I in Wales, and this provides much
background to the building of Beaumaris itself.
The visitor may well be left wondering why all the
lavish accommodation was contemplated. In short, it was to provide the
necessary apartments for the king and, if he should marry again, his queen.
Moreover, his son, the Prince of Wales was fast approaching marriageable age.
Considering the size of both households, plus the need to accommodate royal
officers, the constable, and even the sheriff of Anglesey, the scale of these
domestic arrangements is put into perspective.
Below: the eastern side of the inner ward and the entrance to the
chapel
Despite being planned on such a grand scale, by 1298
the funds for building Beaumaris had dried up. The king was increasingly
involved with works in Gascony and Scotland. Although there were minor
building works in later times, the castle is in many ways a blueprint which
was never fully realized.
Below right: one of the towers of the south gatehouse
Jeff Thomas 1995
Because the
description above does a good job of explaining the historical significance of
Beaumaris, I will try to describe instead my own impressions of the castle
from our visits in 1994/95.
eaumaris is a special
castle. Some feel it's the most beautiful in all of Wales, while others
appreciate the almost perfect symmetry Beaumaris possesses. The image most
people associate with the castle is one of swans swimming peacefully in the
castle moat, framed by Beaumaris' handsome checkered-stone exterior towers.
This is the first striking aspect of the castle: its exterior beauty.
Although never completed to their planned height,
Beaumaris' large exterior towers are impressive, their formidability enhanced
by handsome patterns of stone in shades of dark gray to white, adorning the
exterior walls and towers. Most of the castle is surrounded by a moat, framed
by a beautiful green park complete with picnic tables. Families of ducks and
swans add to the attractive setting as does the castle's handsome gatehouse
and wooden bridge, the main entrance to the castle. So, much of Beaumaris'
beauty can actually be appreciated before setting foot inside the
castle!
Below: view of the unfinished north gatehouse from the inner ward
If the castle's exterior towers can be called large,
then Beaumaris' six interior towers can only be described as huge. Only
William Marshall's great tower at Pembroke Castle and
William ap Thomas' tower at Raglan Castle rival the six
huge inner towers at Beaumaris. Once inside the gatehouse the dimensions of
these towers become clear, if not a bit confusing. Confusing, because the
concentric design of the castle means that one set of walls and towers looks
exactly like the others as you make your way around the ward. Only differences
in the front and rear gatehouses gives clues to your exact location in the
outer ward!
The third thing I
like about Beaumaris (and my favorite thing) are the fascinating interior
passageways found inside the walls of the inner ward. Beaumaris and Caernarfon
are practically the only two Welsh castles that afford visitors an opportunity
to explore significant sections of inner wall passageways. Caernarfon's are
more extensive, but chances are Beaumaris' passages won't be packed with
tourists! In other words, Beaumaris gives visitors the opportunity to explore
this feature in a more intimate environment. Don't miss seeing the lovely
little chapel as part of your passageway walk, a peaceful place to stop and
reflect on your surroundings.
The final thing I find remarkable about Beaumaris are
the wonderful views afforded across the Menai Straight to the Snowdonia
Mountains beyond - breathtaking scenery that can be enjoyed from within or
outside the castle. Although Beaumaris lacks the spectacular siting of some of
Edward's other north Wales castles, the beauty of the castle and surrounding
countryside is undeniable. Beaumaris Castle has been designated a "World
Heritage Site" because it represents a significant accomplishment in the art
of medieval castle-building. The fact that it is also one of the prettier
sites in Wales is a bonus that makes this castle well worth a visit. So, in
your haste to see popular, touristy Caernarfon Castle, consider making the
short drive from Caernarfon to Beaumaris for a totally unique castle
experience!
